..
mjeri se prosjecna vrijednost na cijeloj duzini coila...IR kamera bi to pokazala najbolje

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Ako te uhvati napadaj radinosti, mirno sjedni u ćošak i čekaj da te napadaji prođu!

Top III :Habana, Grandmaster, Grenada
I² Element18350/18650+kick, Ant-i-Mod +5V, Ergo69-Yenki69,UD Agi,IgoW

Mogu ja donijeti https://www.fasttech.com/p/1214001 pa možemo probati ...

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MOD: SXK Nebula Zero Mini, Koopor Mini 60W, Cloupor Mini Plus
Atty: Taifun Kayfun Cubis HH.357

Slozio napokon nikal, pa mi neke stvari nisu bile jasne. Slijedeci tekst masu toga objasnjava.


[ Tips and Tricks for the DNA40...

Strap in kiddies, this could be a long one. [

This forum and others have a ton of information out there on the DNA40. There's a plethora of information, some good, some bad. There isn't one single source that seems to have it all bunched together, at least that I've found. So that's what I'm going to attempt to do. Pull all the good information I know as well as everything that I've personally found to work best for me. This isn't a "right or wrong". If you do things differently than what I lay out here that doesn't mean it's wrong, it just means that I personally have found it to work better a different way. Your results may vary.

One of the hardest things I think about the DNA40 device is that it works. It doesn't really matter what you do. From building a coil way out of spec, having a coil that fires ridiculously unbalanced or badly, to having poor wicking. Whatever you do it still works. That's a great thing, but in the same respect I feel like it can be bad, because it means that someone may not be getting near the quality vape they should be and may not even realize they have a problem. 

Anyway, there's a lot of confusion out there on these things, and I hope to clear some of this up. So what gives me the right? Nothing. I don't work for Evolv, I'm not an expert on the DNA40. I am a very experienced vaper and have owned the DNA40 long enough that I've done a lot of experimentation with it. I've tried just about every possible variation of things out there to see what works best, at least for me. So my hope for this thread is to maybe answer some questions, pull a lot of information into one resource, and above all, for someone brand new to the DNA40 device who may not know where to even begin, hopefully this will be a guide that can be followed to give them a good quality vape that they can later improve on however they like.

So without further intro, let's jump right in.

Issues:
I first want to cover some of the issues I've encountered around the net as well as through personal experience.

1) Some early boards were released that had exposed vias under the ribbon cable for the screen. The errata in the user manual mentions this. This results in a screen garbling issue as well as some other strange effects including it resetting the base resistance of the atomizer once it idled off. Evolv then started releasing these boards with some "gray goop" under the ribbon cable. In some cases I'm sure this resolved the problem, however not in all. I personally owned one of these boards that had been factory fixed, yet it still exhibited the issues. The second board I had had no gray goop, but the conformal coating on the PCB was fixed and this board has functioned flawless in every way for me.

2) "It doesn't always detect a new coil". It's not supposed to. It tries to be "smart" about coils and if it's pretty sure it's not a new coil or the coil is the same resistance as the previous coil then it won't ask. I don't know the exact processes here, but the bottom line is, it won't always ask.

3) "It drops in and out of TP mode", or "My coil keeps changing resistance." This is almost certainly a result of a loose connection on the coil. Because nickel wire is so much softer than kanthal it's common for posts to not be tightened as much as normal (when using through-hole posts). Constant heating and cooling causes contraction and expansion which can loosen up screws and connections pretty quickly. So a common question is why this wasn't such a big problem with kanthal. First as pointed out nickel is much softer. Second, a few hundredths of an ohm difference on a kanthal coil isn't going to make much difference. You're hitting it with a fixed voltage so that change won't really change the wattage nor the output much. However on the DNA40 since the resistances it measures in TP mode are so small to begin with, it's MUCH more sensitive to this. Coupled with the fact that it uses that resistance to determine how much voltage to output. In short it means that kanthal is VERY forgiving when it comes to loose terminations. Nickel on the other hand, with the DNA40 is NOT. You must have absolutely positive terminations for your coils. Using the tops of the screw posts instead of through holes is one method. Work hardening the nickel is another. I have had good success with both work hardening the nickel as well as doubling the legs that go through holes. Until we can get atty's that are better designed for nickel this is the best we can do.

4) "This morning it was vaping like a champ, now I pick it up and I'm get a much weaker vape." This generally is caused by the same as above. A loosened connection. Think of it this way (I'm using arbitrary numbers). Let's say you have a coil that's .11 ohm. And at your maximum temperature limit setting of 450 degrees it reaches .17 ohm. So now one of your coil connections gets just a little bit loose. So what was reading at .11 ohm at room temperature is now reading at .14 ohm at room temperature. So now the DNA40 thinks the coil is sitting at 250+ degrees even though it's room temperature. What happens when you vape? It let's the temp of the coil only raise 200 degrees... So you're getting less than 300 degrees on the coils now before temp limit kicks in. This is again why positive terminations are an absolute must. It doesn't take much at all for a few hundredths of an ohm change in resistance, but that can have a big impact on the temperature the coils are allowed to reach. If this happens your best bet is to tighten down the connections, let the atty cool to room temp, and try again. If it asks if it's a new coil just tell it yes (as long as it's at room temp)

Wire:

So now you're going to need some coils. But before you can do that you're going to need to prepare your wire. NI200 is very soft. So especially if you're using a higher gauge wire you're going to need to work harden it. This will make it easier to work with and less likely to get cut off in post holes if you use them. I used to use a method that was essentially cold rolling it. Hold one end and then with the other hand covered in a tissue or cloth to make it slip easier pull your hand down while using your fingers to bend a "Z" shape in the wire. Repeating this 20+ times. Each time the wire gets a slight bit harder then the time before. However, recently I tried the drill method. This works just as well and is much easier and faster. Rip Trippers has a video titled "Straightening Kanthal" where he demonstrates this method. If you aren't hardening the nickel like this, you truly have no idea what you're missing and how much frustration you can save yourself. Once the wire is hardened it doesn't hurt to give it a good cleaning. I use some electronics grade alcohol that's 99.9%. You can use dish soap or any other method. You just want to get the wire as clean as possible to make sure there aren't any remaining residue from manufacturing. If you choose to glow your coils (which I do) then this step is more optional since any residue should burn off anyway. I still clean it regardless though.

Coils: 

So your wire is ready and now you need to wrap your coil(s). Have you decided what type of build you are doing? When doing nickel builds we have to remember that the DNA40 is most effective in the .1 to 1 ohm range. It will fire below .1 but it won't be able to do so at maximum power as the current is limited. So try to stay in that range. The next step is to try to determine how you can achieve the maximum surface area for your build while still maintaining a good heat flux. If that sounds a bit complicated, it's really not. Remember our temperature is going to be limited. So the more surface area we can spread that temperature over, the more power we can put into our coils. The more power the more vapor. Now that's assuming we want the maximum power. If we don't then we just build for whatever surface area we want and verify that the approximate wattage we want to run is going to perform well for it. 

So if I'm building for a kayfun that I know I'm probably going to be running about 15W. Using Steam Engine for the build I can see that if I use 28awg on a 2.5mm mandrel and do 10 wraps I can hit .13 ohm with a single coil. Steam Engine tells us two very important things. First it tells us that at 15W our heat flux is going to be 141mW/mm^2. If that number is meaningless to you, just look at the little fire symbol beside it... It scales from blue to red... You want to try to stick around the green to greenish yellow for the power you want to run. The other thing it tells us is heat capacity. I won't go into a full out discussion on this, but in general the lower the heat capacity the better. It will have less "lag time" (which isn't a problem for the DNA40, especially when running builds that won't hit high wattage anyway), but it will also stay hot longer after firing. Again not a big deal but just try to keep it low if possible. Less metal in the coil means less heat capacity, but remember you don't want to sacrifice surface area to do it. So in this case 34mJ K-1 is a little high especially with the limited airflow in a kayfun, and we may want to consider dropping down to 30awg instead, but for now we'll just let it ride. [

Now suppose we were building for a dual coil RDA. And we want to get as close to maximum out of this thing as possible. We want it to utilize about as much of the 40 watts as possible while getting as much surface area as we can. So we head back toSteam Engine and play around with the numbers. Now in this case since we have a lot more room in our RDA we decided to go with a 3mm inner diameter. Using 30awg wire we can see that using 11 wraps for each coil will give us a .12 to .13 ohm coil. At 40W that's going to give us a heat flux of 196mW/mm^2. That's pretty warm, but remember we want the maximum we can get out of this thing. That's going to be about perfect. That means during a draw it probably won't drop more than a few watts to maintain our temperature with a strong draw on the RDA. If we found that it was dropping more than a few watts then we can add another wrap or two to the coils to lower our heat flux. For now this should be pretty close to perfect.

Now before we move on, I've given you two different examples here. That's exactly what they are

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clones:Bigdripper-Doge-Mephisto-Aqua-Fatty-Kayfun3.1-Taifun GT-Plumeveil-2xNemesis-Orchid V4-Panzer-Stingray-Tobh-Fogger-CloupurDNA30
origigi:KayfunV4-Expromizer-Atlantis-Subtank-DeltaII-Lemo-Cloupur mini-iStick mini-Vanga-IPV4-AromamizerRDTA-MiniVTC-BillowV2-Snowwolf
mix: Hana DNA40-Zero modz DNA40

stigla nova runda kome treba

http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/epages/yx ... s/EVOLV-04

požurite rasprodaju se brzo ko vruće kokice

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There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot. ><((((º>-------------------------------------------



Modovi, akrilni stalci i 3D printanje

Izašla je i verzija s većim ekranom koji se može odvojiti i lako zamijeniti

http://www.cloud9vaping.co.uk/epages/yx ... s/EVOLV-05

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There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot. ><((((º>-------------------------------------------



Modovi, akrilni stalci i 3D printanje

Alaluja ... Sad jos da bude na duzem kablu da se moze stavit u drugacije pozicije

_________________
Ako te uhvati napadaj radinosti, mirno sjedni u ćošak i čekaj da te napadaji prođu!

Top III :Habana, Grandmaster, Grenada
I² Element18350/18650+kick, Ant-i-Mod +5V, Ergo69-Yenki69,UD Agi,IgoW

sad da još manji naprave s takvim spojem i 3 duljine kabla

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There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot. ><((((º>-------------------------------------------



Modovi, akrilni stalci i 3D printanje

da je moguće i ekran odspojiti. Onda dužina kablova po želji

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"People smoke for nicotine but they die from the tar." (Michael Russell)

Složen prvi coil na VaporShark-u DNA40 & Svoemesto KL+
sa Ni200 žicom i MUJI japanski cotton




slikice su malo jadne jer trenutno nemam fotić
sve sam novce uložio u opremu za parenje

MC napravljen savršeno, gledao sam ga 5 minuta i divio se sam sebi
kako mi je to tako dobro uspjelo, sve po PS-u, 0.19 Ohma

iskreno nisam impresioniran, to je vjerojatno subjektivno
možda sam imao prevelika očekivanja
vjerojatno sam se navikao na nešto drugačije
sve radi kako treba, regulacija temperature,
mod kao mod savršena naprava, čip pregršt mogućnosti
međutim jednostavno nije to to što sam ja očekivao
iskreno bolji gušt mi je 1.4 Ohma na silici
sa friško napunjenom baterijom i mehanika nego ova moderna čuda
ali to sam ja, nekom drugom vjerojatno paše nešto drugačije
eto samo sam htio podijeliti svoja iskustva sa vama

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Joyetech VTC Mini x2 ~ Kayfun Lite Plus ® x2
and many other things..................................

Probaj namotati 6-8 namotaja na 2.5mm borer i razmaknuti coil. Ne treba ti MC i stisnuti coilovi.

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